![Barbarian DaysA Surfing Life【電子書籍】[ William Finnegan ]](http://thumbnail.image.rakuten.co.jp/@0_gold/rakutenkobo-ebooks/imghb/df/4c/9be5d69499e93ee58ff91cff6eeab6a7.jpg?_ex=128x128) |
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価格：1968 円（税込）
発送可能時期：在庫あり |
| ＜p＞Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. ＜/p＞＜p＞William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. ＜i＞Barbarian Days＜/i＞ is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa, Peru and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.＜/p＞＜p＞＜i＞Barbarian Days＜/i＞ is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.＜/p＞画面が切り替わりますので、しばらくお待ち下さい。 ※ご購入は、楽天kobo商品ページからお願いします。※切り替わらない場合は、こちら をクリックして下さい。 ※このページからは注文できません。
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